Winding our way inland from the coast, the landscape slowly shifted, rolling hills turning into the more rugged, misty highlands. It’s easy to see why the Celtic settlers were drawn to this part of Australia; the crisp air, green paddocks, and soft light gave it a feeling of home. After a few years abroad, it felt like a little slice of the UK in the middle of New South Wales.

We followed Leonie’s detailed directions through their working cattle farm, past curious cows and wallabies, until we reached the Platypus Eco Retreat. Stepping out of the car, the first thing that hit us was the cold, invigorating and fresh. We threw on our extra layers and got to work lighting the fire, both inside and out.
The cabin itself is stunning, cleverly designed with natural materials, huge windows that frame the surrounding trees, and thoughtful touches throughout. Tucked away from the world with no internet and limited phone signal, it’s the kind of place that invites you to disconnect, slow down, breathe deeply, and just be.

As the late afternoon light faded, we prepped dinner using the outdoor BBQ and pizza stone, eating our creations fireside as the stars began to appear overhead. When the chill set in, we moved indoors to the toasty warmth of the cabin, curling up in what might be the comfiest bed ever, flannelette sheets, thick layers of duvets, and the crackle of the indoor log burner keeping us snug.

We woke to a frost-dusted garden and soft golden light. Wallabies grazed nearby, birds flitted across the sky, and the deck became our morning coffee spot. Later, Leonie dropped by to say hello and share the history of the land and her and John’s story. She pointed out the best places to try our luck at spotting platypuses in the river that winds through the property.

Wrapped up warm, we set off on our platypus hunt. The wallaby tracks through the property are beautiful, dappled light, quiet clearings, and the sound of the river rushing past. Sit quietly by the pools and you might just spot your elusive neighbours. A charming picnic backpack hangs in the cabin, making it easy to pack a breakfast or lunch and head out exploring.

That afternoon we drove into nearby Glen Innes, a small town known for its Celtic heritage and beautifully preserved historic buildings. At the visitor centre, we grabbed a local walking guide and were encouraged to visit the Australian Standing Stones, a striking monument that celebrates the cultural legacy of Celtic communities in Australia. After wandering through the impressive stone circle and reading about its significance, we made our way up the short trail to the Skywalk lookout, where we were rewarded with sweeping views across the New England Tablelands.

On the way back, we stopped by Beardy Waters Nature Reserve for a gentle walk, a bit of bird watching, and some quiet time by the water.

Once home, the fires were lit again in time for sunset. As night settled in, the stars came out bright and clear, and we toasted marshmallows before dinner, a hearty, slow-cooked meal made in the eco pot provided. Another evening of reading, chatting, and soaking up the stillness before falling into that heavenly bed.

On our final morning, we set an early alarm, Leonie had told us that platypuses are most active at dawn. It was hard to leave the warmth and comfort of the bed, but the misty morning drew us out. With steaming coffees in hand, we headed back to the riverbank. We didn’t spot a platypus, but the quiet, hopeful time spent waiting in nature felt like a reward in itself.

Back at the cabin, we showered and packed, one last chance to enjoy the lovely, spacious shower with its full-length window and view to the trees. There’s something quietly magical about rinsing off as morning light filters in and wallabies hop by.

After packing up, we made one last stop in Glen Innes for brunch at the Local, and a wander around the historic building walking trail, then picked up a couple of pies to take with us for the road.

Our final adventure was at Gibraltar Range National Park, the perfect place to stretch our legs before the long drive home. With waterfalls, walking trails, and dramatic granite outcrops to explore, you could easily spend a full day here. We wandered the peaceful Lyrebird Trail through dense forest, then stopped by Boundary Falls, a short walk from the car park and a beautiful spot to admire before hitting the road.

Even though the platypuses stayed hidden this time, we left the stay feeling relaxed and restored, with the perfect excuse to return in spring.